Georgia, the home of the Caucasus Mountains, should not be visited without paying a visit to the mountains (of course!). A day hike didn't hurt, and it was actually the only mountain activity we could squeeze into our trip.
If you're looking for a day hike in Stepantsminda (Kazbegi), the trail beyond Gergeti Trinity Church is a beautiful way to experience the mountains. We set out toward the Gergeti Glacier, passing through alpine landscapes with Mount Kazbek towering above us. We didn't make it all the way to the glacier though, but the hike itself was already an experience worth remembering.
Note: We didn't make it all the way to the Gergeti Glacier during our hike. We reached approximately 2,970 MASL at Sabertse Pass before turning around, so this guide documents our experience on the trail rather than a completed glacier hike.
Gergeti Glacier Hike Overview:
- Route: Gergeti Glacier via Gergeti Trinity Church Hike Trail (Out-and-back hike)
- Distance: Not recorded during our hike
- Elevation Gain: Not recorded during our hike
- Highest Point: ~2,970 MASL at Sabertse Pass
- Time Taken: Approximately 10 hours of moving time, according to my original notes
- Best Season: June to September, depending on snow and weather conditions
- Highlights: Gergeti Trinity Church, Mount Kazbek views, alpine landscapes, Sabertse Pass, and the trail toward Gergeti Glacier
A note about the trail data: We did this hike in 2019 during our short Backpacking Trip in the Caucasus Region. I was not used to recording my hikes on Strava at that time, so I don't have an exact GPS track or verified distance/elevation data from my hike. Sorry!
How to Get There and How to Get Out:
Gergeti Glacier lies along the slopes of Mount Kazbek, near Stepantsminda in northern Georgia. The mountain is a famous destination for both amateur hikers and experienced mountaineers, so getting to Stepantsminda from Tbilisi is relatively straightforward.
Public transportation between Tbilisi and Stepantsminda is available by marshrutka, making it one of the more affordable ways to reach the area.
From Tbilisi, we took a marshrutka from Didube Metro Station to Kazbegi (Stepantsminda). Back in 2019, there was a sign showing a fare of 10 GEL, but we were asked to pay more: 15 GEL on the way to Kazbegi and 20 GEL on the way back to Tbilisi.
The drive took around 3–4 hours, depending on traffic, road conditions, and, well, how crazy the driver was. 😅 If you want to start your hike early, I'd recommend traveling to Stepantsminda the day before rather than trying to squeeze the marshrutka journey and a long hike into the same day
Hiking Trailhead:
From the center of Stepantsminda, we just walked to the trailhead. It is roughly 30 minutes from the bus stop and a great warm-up before the actual hike.
The trailhead of this trail starts on the left side of the village next to Gergeti Cafe. Go straight from here and follow the trail. Do NOT take the steep slope on the right, just go straight and follow the trail until you reach the river.
The trail is an out-and-back route, so you'll finish where you started unless you decide to finish your hike at the Gergeti Trinity Church instead. If so, I would recommend arranging your transportation back to your accommodation in advance.
Hiking Trail Sections:
1. River & Gergeti Trinity Church
Follow the trail along the river (do not cross the river) and you will even find some trail signs as painted in white-red-white pattern.
Not long enough, you will start walking on the slope of Gergeti Trinity Church. At the same time, you will get a glimpse of the snow-capped peak of Mt. Kazbek. Mt. Kazbek's peak should always be in your North (way of direction).
Get a head start and explore Gergeti Trinity Church before the crowd flocked in. Hike up towards the right to reach the church or else go straight if you want to go continue your hike.
2. Classic Route of the Hill & Memorial of Polish Mountaineers
Walk towards the outdoor parking lot nearby. There's a trail on the left or you can follow the road from the church. Behind the parking lot is the official jump-off of Mt. Kazbek. You will not miss this as you will see mountaineers gearing up for their hikes with their huge packs.
The trail continues on a gentle slope and we encountered a fork on the trail, we took the LEFT Trail. According to Jozef of Caucasus Trekking, the right trail leads to the scenic route, a ridgeline with better views but slightly longer by 300 meters.
During our visit (Summer of 2019), the flowers were in full bloom and I enjoyed collecting them (photos, not actual flowers) at this section. Gradually, I noticed that we were starting to huff and puff our way as we started to pick up the elevation.
A memorial was also built for the Polish mountaineers who died on the mountain along the trail. You are close to the pass when you see the rocks with green patches that look like a growing variety of algae or moss.
3. Sabertse Pass & AltiHut
The top of the hill is called Sabertse Pass with a small shrine (couldn't find the photo of the shrine anymore). Most of the hikers take a break here as you get a sweeping view of Mount Kazbek. If it's not cloudy, you will get to see it in full glory.
We walked further up closer to the edge of the gorge until we finally called it quits to turn around. We didn't even reach AltiHut but it was right before our eyes.
From our turning point, we were an hour and a half away from the glacier. That's a lot of time in addition to the time we will take to go down. We didn't have an option as we were in a hurry to catch a marshrutka to Tbilisi and then a train to Yerevan.
4. Gergeti Glacier
Unfortunately, we were not able to hike up to the Gergeti Glacier. However, as a first-timer in Georgia, the trip was not in vain. I mean, look at that close-up photo of Gergeti Glacier and Mt. Kazbek's snow-capped peak. Isn't she lovely?
So I guess, we're parting ways from here. I will update this once I get back to this trail, and who knows, maybe I'll get to reach Mount Kazbek's summit too! Fingers crossed!
Bonus: Descent View
We took the same trail going down and I was stunned with the view of Gergeti Trinity Church and Mt. Shani as a backdrop. What more could I ask for?
Personal Thoughts of our hike to Gergeti Glacier:
As I always say, we all have different adventure appetite or what I call #hikeppetite, to begin with. So, a good trail for me might not be a good trail for you, and vice versa. And that’s completely okay! We don’t need to agree with anyone or everyone all the time. Anyhow, here’s what I think about our hike to Gergeti Glacier.
Pros:
- The trail is relatively easy to follow, and the slopes are generally gentler than other mountain hikes I've done, such as Komsomolets Peak in Kyrgyzstan and the Big Chimgan in Uzbekistan. Most hikers should be able to navigate the route independently without hiring a guide, but you can hire one if you're more comfortable with that.
- The trailhead is easy to reach from Stepantsminda, whether you choose to walk from town or arrange a transfer.
- The scenery is spectacular throughout the hike. Even if you don't make it all the way to the glacier, you'll still be rewarded with panoramic views of the Gergeti Glacier and Mount Kazbek from a distance, alpine meadows, and the surrounding Caucasus Mountains.
- We encountered plenty of friendly dogs along the trail, which added a bit of character to the experience.
Cons:
- The trail can get quite busy during the summer hiking season. Expect to share the route with day hikers, trail runners, and mountaineers preparing for a Mount Kazbek ascent.
- There is very little shade along the route. On sunny days, the combination of elevation and constant sun exposure can make the hike feel more demanding than it looks on paper.
- Mountain weather can change quickly, so good visibility is never guaranteed even during summer.
Even though we didn't reach the Gergeti Glacier itself, Joy and I came away from the hike feeling grateful for the experience. The trail offered exactly what we had hoped to find in the Caucasus Mountains: rolling grassy slopes, dramatic mountain scenery, and endless views that made every uphill step worthwhile.
If you're visiting Kazbegi and looking for a rewarding day hike, the trail beyond Gergeti Trinity Church is well worth considering. Whether you make it all the way to the glacier or simply hike as far as your time and energy allow, you'll still be treated to some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in Georgia.
Whatever decision you make, always remember to prepare beforehand, stay safe, and last but not least, enjoy the outdoors!! #happyhiking!
With lots of love,
PINAYHAKAWATI 💗
AND AS A GENTLE OUTDOOR ETHICS REMINDER:
LEAVE NO TRACE!
